What a used bike costs you in its first month

A used two-wheeler almost always needs something in the first few weeks. Knowing what, before you agree a price, is the difference between a bargain and a slow annoyance.

The consumables, in the order they bite

• Chain and sprocket. Look at the teeth: hooked rather than symmetrical means worn. Sold as a set, and replacing one without the other wastes both.
• Tyres. Check the date code on the sidewall, not just the tread. Rubber hardens with age, and a five-year-old tyre with plenty of tread is still a tyre that will not grip in monsoon.
• Battery. If it needs a push or the self-start is lazy, budget for one. On a scooter with no kick-start this is not optional.
• Brake pads and shoes. Cheap. Check them anyway so you know.
• Fork oil and seals. Wet legs at the front mean seals, and once you are in there the oil goes too.

The paperwork costs

• Transfer fees at the RTO.
• Insurance — assume you are starting a fresh policy, not inheriting one.
• PUC, if the current one is close to expiring.

Electric scooters are a different sum

There are no chains, sprockets or oil changes, but the battery is most of the value and it is the thing you cannot see. Ask how old it is and what range it gives now, not what the brochure said. A cheap electric scooter with a tired battery is not cheap.

How to use this

Add it up, out loud, in front of the seller. "It needs a chain set and the front tyre is four years old — that is this much." It is a reasonable conversation and it is far more likely to move a price than asking for a discount with no reason attached.